Profile Feature Nomin Erdenetsogt Profile Feature Nomin Erdenetsogt

The “Rainbow Bridge” in Inner Mongolia

Hundreds of Mongolian independent merchants, the survivors of the collapsed socialist era, patiently waited in a seemingly endless line of Russian GAZ-69 cars at the Zamiin Ude border. Among those heading to the small village of Erlian in Inner Mongolia to restock their markets was Osordorj Nyamtseren, a bold visionary who had recently left his job as a driver in pursuit of fabric trading. At the time, he was completely unaware that his vision would eventually lead to the flourishing of the first authentic Mongolian restaurant, expanding to five branches in Erlian. He also didn’t know he would establish various business brokerage services between Chinese and Mongolian people, open a kindergarten, and plant the seeds for a growing line of Mongolian stores in that small intersection of the two neighboring countries.

Osordorj Nyamsteren with his friend Yu Young at Solongo restaurant. 

Hundreds of Mongolian independent merchants, the survivors of the collapsed socialist era, patiently waited in a seemingly endless line of Russian GAZ-69 cars at the Zamiin Ude border. Among those heading to the small village of Erlian in Inner Mongolia to restock their markets was Osordorj Nyamtseren, a bold visionary who had recently left his job as a driver in pursuit of fabric trading. At the time, he was completely unaware that his vision would eventually lead to the flourishing of the first authentic Mongolian restaurant, expanding to five branches in Erlian. He also didn’t know he would establish various business brokerage services between Chinese and Mongolian people, open a kindergarten, and plant the seeds for a growing line of Mongolian stores in that small intersection of the two neighboring countries. 

Nyamtseren’s journey began with the reopening of the Chinese-Mongolian border, ending Inner Mongolia’s 40 years of isolation. “The 1990s was a big time for Mongolians. To combat the financial crisis caused by the shift from socialism to democracy, a big wave of people ventured to China,” he recalled. 

Five years prior, he received heartbreaking news. Nyamtseren’s father had died, and he learned of it through a military phone. This loss made him an orphan just before society transformed dramatically. The relentless changes of the era pushed him to be on his own, which felt overwhelming to a 25-year-old. However, he wasn’t entirely alone. His high school sweetheart, Tungalag Jambal, who had married him shortly after his return from the military and his father’s passing, was by his side.

After losing his driver’s job to democracy, Nyamtseren proposed the idea of importing silk and fabric from China to his wife. When that business slowed, the couple used the leftover fabric to open a tailor shop, relying on Jambal’s sewing skills. “Then again, there he was presenting his big idea of opening a restaurant in Erlian,” said Jambal. “Quickly adapting to changes, he is truly a business-minded man.”

 Nyamtseren with his wife Jambal Tungalag

Their 13-year fabric trading began in the deserted city of Erlian, which took 1-3 days to reach from Ulaanbaatar. For larger cities like Beijing, Dalian, Tianjin, Shanghai, and Hangzhou, their trips extended to 10–14 days. During these prolonged periods of travel, Nyamtseren observed fatigue among fellow merchants, particularly their struggles with surviving Chinese food during their continuous trips.

“The heavy seasoning, the abundance of spices, and the emphasis on leafy greens left few appealing options for Mongolians,” Nyamtseren explained. The full-time merchants grew weary of the repetitive meals, as they preferred plain, meat-centric dishes that suited Mongolian dietary practices. “We live and breathe meat,” he said with a chuckle.

Reflecting on the situation in 2003, he built the first rainbow bridge, a Mongolian restaurant named after his daughter, Solongo, which means “Rainbow.” He strategically chose Erlian as the location, a city that evolved from a deserted area with 50,000 residents into the largest marketplace for Mongolians within a decade. With only one border crossing into China by train and car, this small intersection became a bustling hub. He envisioned the aroma of his food drawing every merchant and traveler directly from the borders to the doors of Solongo. 

His vision came to life as the two-story restaurant with 12 tables became a remarkable success from the very first day. In just a month, long lines of customers waiting outside became a common sight. They were drawn to the restaurant, where the name “Solongo” was proudly displayed in Mongolian, Inner Mongolian, and Chinese. Not only did it become a comforting haven for merchants constantly on the move, but it also attracted Inner Mongolian and Chinese residents, fostering a vibrant community. 

Nyamtseren saw this cultural hub he created as an excellent opportunity to start a new service, acting as a broker between Chinese and Mongolian businesses. “That rascal is a sharp-witted guy. He picked up basic Chinese from me and practiced it through constant interactions with others, eventually using it for his brokerage services,” said Yu Young, a Chinese friend Nyamtseren met during his merchant days. 

Over the years, the restaurant branched out to five additional locations. The constant flow of customers showed that the menu crafted by his wife, a food technologist, was perfect for satisfying the tired travelers from beyond the border. However, as the restaurant expanded, Nyamtseren encountered a logistical challenge: he struggled to retain enough full-time workers willing to stay away from home as most of them were couples with children. Therefore, with sufficient savings, he courageously established a kindergarten in 2012. This provided a solution for their workers and Inner Mongolian parents, who wanted their children to stay connected to their cultural roots. The kindergarten started with one class of 20–25 students, two teachers, and one cook. 

In this way, Nyamtseren transformed Solongo restaurant into Solongo Solutions LLC, which operated smoothly with a steady income until the COVID-19 pandemic broke out in 2020. After two years of quarantine in Ulaanbaatar, he returned to the main restaurant to revive the business and eventually retire, passing the company to his second daughter, Bolormaa Nyamtseren. 

“Stepping into the abandoned space of my restaurant, covered in dust and clutter from our apartments, I feared we would struggle to get back on our feet and attract the same number of customers we used to,” said Nyamtseren. 

With the growing trend in Mongolia of store owners restocking their markets through online shops like Taobao, he worried that the demand for his restaurant might no longer exist. Despite this uncertainty, he reopened the restaurant within two weeks with his initial team: his daughter Bolormaa, the future owner, two main chiefs, one line cook, and one waitress. 

“It reminded me of how I started it all with my wife. However, this time I had connections all over Erlian, and it was easier than I imagined,” he said calmly. 

Now in 2024, thousands of Mongolians still form long lines at the Zamiin Ude border to enter Erlian. Among them are merchants who prefer working with their familiar stores in the Erlian market and travelers passing through on low-budget buses to Beijing, Shanghai, and Hohhot. The old Russian GAZ-69 cars have been replaced by Prius-31s, and conversations about the financial crisis have shifted to stopping by Solongo as soon as they cross the border. Solongo LLC is now successfully operating with two main branches, tourism and brokerage services, without the kindergarten. 

Reflecting on his journey, Nyamtseren emphasized that he never imagined he would establish these businesses amidst the transitions and changes of our constantly evolving society. One day you wake up and lose your job as society collapses. Another day, you wake up to a pandemic outbreak and have to abandon your business. “But that is how life is, and as messy as it is, it also gives abundant opportunities just if you can find them,” concluded Nyamtseren.

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Research Paper Nomin Erdenetsogt Research Paper Nomin Erdenetsogt

Gold Rush Ninjas: A Resource Curse Perspective on Mongolia’s Informal Mining

In the recent years leading up to 2024, Mongolia’s economy has undergone significant changes. Once an economy heavily reliant on agriculture and livestock, it has now shifted towards mining. The mining sector has been a major driver of economic growth, with projections indicating a growth rate of 5.8 percent in 2023 and 6.2 percent in 2024. Private consumption is recovering, and fiscal expansion remains strong, contributing to this growth. However, the growth has not been uniform across all sectors. The non-mining sector has lagged behind, highlighting the economy’s heavy dependence on mining.

Abstract

This paper will explore the economic situation in Mongolia, particularly focusing on the role of informal gold mining, often referred to as ‘ninja’ mining. The research will be framed within the context of the Resource Curse theory and delve into the following aspects:

  1. An in-depth analysis of the informal gold mining sector, its economic implications, and its relation to the overall mining sector. 

  2. The current economic situation in Mongolia, with a focus on the mining sector’s contribution to the GDP23. 

  3. Exploration of potential strategies for economic diversification to mitigate the effects of the resource curse, with a focus on the role of the informal mining sector. 

Theoretical review 

The Resource Curse Theory, also known as the Paradox of Plenty posits that an abundance of non-renewable resources such as minerals and fuels can paradoxically result in less economic growth and poorer developmental outcomes. This counter-intuitive outcome arises from several interconnected factors. 

Firstly, countries rich in natural resources often experience income volatility due to the cyclical nature of global commodity markets. Prices for resources like oil and minerals can fluctuate wildly based on global supply and demand dynamics, geopolitical events, and other factors. This volatility can lead to economic instability, making long-term economic planning challenging. Secondly, the presence of valuable resources can lead to governance challenges. The potential for enormous wealth can incentivize corruption and rent-seeking behavior, leading to the misallocation of resources. In extreme cases, it can even fuel conflict, as different groups vie for control of valuable resources. Thirdly, the focus on resource extraction can lead to the neglect of other sectors of the economy, a phenomenon known as Dutch Disease. As resources are extracted and exported, the country’s currency may strengthen, making other sectors of the economy, like manufacturing and agriculture, less competitive on the international market. This can result in a one-dimensional economy that is overly reliant on a single actor. Lastly, the wealth generated by resource extraction often does not benefit the broader population. Instead, it tends to be concentrated among a small elite, leading to increased inequality and social unrest. This is particularly true in countries with weak institutions and poor governance. 

In conclusion, while natural resources can provide a significant source of income, they can also bring about economic and social challenges. The Resource Curse Theory highlights the importance of good governance, economic diversification, and sound fiscal management in ensuring that natural resource wealth benefits all citizens. It’s a reminder that resources, while valuable, are not a panacea for economic development and must be managed carefully to ensure sustainable and inclusive growth.  

Introduction 

Mongolia, the biggest global nation without coastal access to a closed sea, is predominantly composed of expansive grassy plains. It is bordered by mountains in the north and west, while the southern region is dominated by the Gobi Desert. Ulaanbaatar, the nation’s capital and most populous city houses approximately half of Mongolia’s inhabitants. Furthermore, it is important to note that Mongolia is positioned between two global and political powerhouses, Russia and China.

Mongolia, during the socialist era, was often unofficially referred to as the sixteenth republic of the Soviet Union, being its poorest and most dependent ally. The economy during this period was primarily based on agriculture and was underdeveloped. Despite these challenges, Mongolia experienced rapid economic growth in the 1960s, leading to universal literacy, a first in Asia. The transition from socialism to a free-market economy and democratic political system in the early 1990s was a significant turning point for Mongolia. This period was marked by sweeping economic and political reforms. However, the transition was not without its challenges. The economic growth that Mongolia experienced during this period was impressive but also highly volatile.

In the recent years leading up to 2024, Mongolia’s economy has undergone significant changes. Once an economy heavily reliant on agriculture and livestock, it has now shifted towards mining. The mining sector has been a major driver of economic growth, with projections indicating a growth rate of 5.8 percent in 2023 and 6.2 percent in 2024. Private consumption is recovering, and fiscal expansion remains strong, contributing to this growth. However, the growth has not been uniform across all sectors. The non-mining sector has lagged behind, highlighting the economy’s heavy dependence on mining. There are also significant risks to Mongolia’s economic growth, including potential decreases in mineral exports due to slower growth in China, inflationary pressures, and uncertainties surrounding coal offtake agreements.

Taking all the above into consideration, Mongolia has made remarkable progress in its economic development since the socialist era. The shift towards a market-oriented economy has brought about significant economic growth. However, challenges such as economic volatility and over-reliance on the mining sector persist. As Mongolia continues to navigate its economic journey, it will be crucial to address these challenges to ensure sustainable and inclusive growth.

The Gold Ninjas of Mongolia and Their Influence on the Mining Sector 

  1. Gold Situation in Mongolia 

Mongolia’s wealth in natural resources is significant, with the mining sector, including gold extraction, playing a pivotal role in its economy. The country’s mineral wealth, primary coal, copper, and gold, has been valued between US$1 trillion and US$3 trillion. As for gold production, Mongolia recorded a yield of 19,000.00 kg in December 2022, showing a slight drop from the 19,054.00 kg produced in December 2021. The data, which is updated annually, shows an average production of 11,504.00 kg from December 1990 to 2022. Mongolia’s landscape and natural resources significantly contribute to this situation. The country is among the 29 developing nations identified by the International Monetary Fund as being rich in resources. It’s estimated that geological mapping has been conducted on 45% of Mongolia’s territory, uncovering extensive reserves of coal, copper, and gold. In Mongolia, the gold industry functions at multiple levels, including large-scale operations and smaller, artisanal ventures. The Artisanal and Small-scale Gold mining (ASGM) sector is notably vibrant and faces both challenges and opportunities in regulating and formalizing the gold trade within the country. The industry is driven by a mix of domestic and international players. For example, the Mongolia Energy Corporation, a mining and energy firm operating in Mongolia and Xinjiang, and the Erdenet Mining Corporation, a Mongolian-Russian joint venture, contribute significantly to the country’s mining output. Furthermore, Anglo-Australian firms like Rio Tinto and Canadian companies such as Turquoise Hill Resources have a strong presence in the country, backed by agreements with the Mongolian government. 

 Mongolia’s approach to its gold industry incorporates both local and international collaborations. For instance, during a state visit to France in October 2023, Mongolian President Ukhnaa Khurelsukh endorsed a significant agreement that led to a US$1.7 billion investment by Orano Mining, owned by the French government. This deal enabled Orano to initiate Mongolia’s first uranium mining and processing operation. The strategy of forging international partnerships is advantageous as it enables Mongolia to diversity its mining sector and its investor base. It also acts as a strategic instrument to broaden Mongolia’s third-neighbour foreign policy, where Mongolia aims to cultivate relationships with countries beyond China and Russia. However, there are also weaknesses in Mongolia’s strategy. The country’s exports are 90% dependent on natural resource extraction, accounting for 90% of total exports, which exposes the economy to the volatility of commodity prices. Moreover, despite adopting a more cautious approach to mining and learning not to take investment lightly, Mongolia continues to grapple with issues related to environmental sustainability and the societal impacts of mining.

2. The Gold Ninjas of Mongolia

The term “Gold Ninjas” is a colloquialism used in Mongolia to describe individuals who engage in unauthorized, small-scale mining activities, often panning for gold. The moniker “Ninja” is inspired by the green bowls they use for panning, which, when carried on their backs, resemble the shells of the Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles. Most of these miners are Mongolians who turned to traditional herding after losing their jobs due to the collapse of the People’s Republic of Mongolia during the post-socialist era. However, harsh winters in 2001 and 2002 resulted in the loss of a significant portion of the country’s livestock, forcing numerous families to resort to ninja mining. These miners typically look for quartz or gold in areas that large mining companies have deemed unprofitable.

Informal mining in Mongolia originated in the mid-1990s, triggered by the closure of an old coal mine near Ulaanbaatar in 1995. During the Socialist era, the state-owned Nalaikh coal mine’s output was primarily consumed locally in the capital for power generation and heating purposes. Following the mine’s closure, the local urban poor, typically from the ger district or underprivileged slum areas, started scavenging around this mine, using coal to combat the harsh winter chill. However, it wasn’t until 1999, when nomadic herders began gold digging and panning, that informal mining in Mongolia gained global recognition. This period saw the establishment of approximately 130 placer gold mining companies. As the number of gold mining companies increased, so did the number of “wildcatters” - herder groups who abandoned their homes and jobs to part-time or full-time gold digging and sifting. This exponential growth during the first decade of the 21st century led to what the Mongolian Business Development Agency (MBDA) termed the “First” and “Second” gold rush in 2003. Notably, a significant proportion of these miners were women and children of 10-19.

The ninja mining process usually involves a team of miners digging a hole about 10-15 feet deep using iron stakes, or until they reach a layer with a high gold content. Holes that are close to each other are interconnected underground. Once the hole is dug, one ninja miner works at the bottom of the hole by candlelight, excavating dirt, while another hauls the dirt to the surface to be sifter by a third ninja miner.


In the past, Mongolia’s “ninja” miners, named for their green panning bowls that resemble the shells of the Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles, were largely left to their own devices. This was a time when nearly three-quarters of Mongolia’s 2.9 million people were living on less than $2 a day. The activities of these miners, scavenging and mining on a small scale, were seen as a necessary evil, a way to alleviate the harsh realities of poverty and unemployment.

However, the winds of change began to blow when a Russian mining company, having had its mine invaded by thousands of these “ninja” miners, demanded increased security measures. The miners had not only beaten the guards and stolen gold but also destroyed equipment. This incident led to a significant ramping up of security measures in the town. A large trench was dug around the town, additional security personnel were deployed, and checkpoints were established on the roads leading into the community. Reflecting on this, it’s clear that the balance between tolerating informal mining as a means of survival and protecting formal mining operations is a delicate one. The escalation of security measures has created an atmosphere of fear among the local population. They live in constant dread of being arrested, with even mundane activities like carrying a green bowl in public or having muddy shoes being used as a pretext for arrest.

Since the enforcement of these measures, it’s estimated that about one-sixth of the town’s residents have been detained. It’s a sobering thought that it’s now hard to find a family that hasn’t had a member arrested. The age range of those arrested is wide, with individuals as young as 16 and as old as 66 being taken into custody. While some of the arrests are justified, as the “ninja” miners are technically trespassing and stealing, the police action appears to have become indiscriminate. Residents are being arrested at night, chased down in the streets, or detained at checkpoints with little evidence of their involvement in scavenging activities. This situation highlights the complex challenges faced by resource-rich countries like Mongolia. It underscores the need for balanced policies that protect the rights and livelihoods of all stakeholders, from large mining companies to informal miners and local communities. It’s a delicate balancing act, one that requires thoughtful and inclusive policymaking. It’s a reminder that the path to sustainable development is often fraught with challenges, but with the right approach, it’s a journey that can lead to a more equitable and prosperous future.

3. Impact on the Broader Mining Sector 

The informal mining sector, especially the activities of the Gold Ninjas, significantly influences Mongolia’s overall mining sector. As per Planet Gold Mongolia, a UN-led project, it’s estimated that 40,000 to 60,000 people, including a third who are women, are involved in artisanal mining across 14 of Mongolia’s 21 provinces. This figure represents about 12-20% of the labor force and is comparable to the number of people employed in formal mining (60,000, according to the World Mining Congress). These informal miners, often referred to as ‘Ninja’ miners and small-scale miners, contribute the majority of the 19.4 t of gold that Mongolia produces annually.

The proximity of these informal miners to large mining operations has resulted in a complex interplay between the two sectors. While the activities of the Gold Ninjas can lead to environmental degradation and other social impacts, the informal mining sector also provides a crucial source of income for many rural, low-income communities in Mongolia. The informal mining sector also shapes the regulatory environment of Mongolia’s mining industry. The government faces the challenge of regulating these activities, striving to balance economic development with environmental conservation and social fairness. In conclusion, the Gold Ninjas of Mongolia, despite operating outside the formal structures of the mining industry, play a pivotal role in the country’s economy. Their activities contribute significantly to Mongolia’s gold production and also shape the dynamics of the overall mining sector. As Mongolia continues its economic journey, addressing these challenges will be vital to ensure sustainable and inclusive growth.

Mongolia’s Current Economic Situation: The Mining Sector’s GDP Contribution

Over the past three decades, Mongolia, a thriving democracy, has undergone a remarkable economic transformation. The per capita GDP of the country has tripled since 1991. Despite some economic instability and slower growth leading to a halt in poverty reduction in recent years, the future of Mongolia’s development is optimistic. The mining sector is a cornerstone of Mongolia’s economy, contributing 25% to the country’s GDP. This sector’s impact goes beyond its direct contributions to the GDP, as it also represents 57% of total industrial production and 42% of total investments in 2022. The Mongolian economy is projected to expand by 5.1 percent in 2023, propelled by the ongoing recovery in mining production and services. This growth rate is expected to quicken to 5.4% in 2023 and further to 6.1% in 2024, bolstered by exports, a rebound in mining, and its positive ripple effects on transport and other sectors. 

The growth of the mining sector is primarily driven by the country’s abundant mineral resources. The GDP from Mining in Mongolia rose to 1125066.80 MNT Million in the last quarter of 2023, up from 1118513.30 MNT Million in the previous quarter. This growth trajectory is likely to persist, especially with the start of the Oyu Tolgoi underground mining phase. However, Mongolia is confronted with significant risks and challenges, including a potential worsening of external balances due to weaker external demand from China, tighter external credit conditions, and ongoing fiscal risks associated with large contingent liabilities. Despite these challenges, the medium-term outlook remains strong, primarily supported by a significant increase in mining output from the underground mining phase of Oyu Tolgoi. 

Reflecting on these facts, it’s clear that the mining sector is a critical driver of Mongolia’s economy. The sector’s contribution to the GDP underscores its importance in the country’s economic growth and development. However, the reliance on the mining sector also exposes the economy to vulnerabilities associated with fluctuations in global commodity prices and demand. Therefore, while the mining sector’s contribution to Mongolia’s GDP is significant, it’s crucial for the country to diversify its economy to mitigate the risks associated with over-reliance on a single sector. This could involve investing in other sectors such as agriculture, manufacturing, and services, and implementing structural reforms to foster a more resilient and sustainable economy.

In conclusion, Mongolia’s economic situation, particularly the mining sector’s contribution to the GDP, presents a complex yet promising picture. With careful management and strategic planning, Mongolia can leverage its abundant resources to ensure sustained economic growth and prosperity.

Strategies for Diversification to Counter Resource Curse 

As we have analyzed from the previous sections it is certain that Mongolia is a country abundant in mineral wealth but it certainly deals with the effects of “resource curse.” This paradox is particularly noticeable in Mongolia’s mining sector, which, while making a significant contribution to the country’s GDP, has also led to economic instability due to its susceptibility to global commodity price changes. A potential strategy to mitigate the effects of the resource curse is economic diversification. This involves expanding an economy’s income sources, thereby reducing reliance on a single actor. This strategy can help shield the economy from shocks in the global commodity market, promote sustainable growth, and generate jobs.


In Mongolia’s context, economic diversification could mean investing in sectors other than mining, such as agriculture, manufacturing, and services. For example, developing the manufacturing sector could help create value-added products from Mongolia’s mineral resources, thereby increasing the country’s export earnings. Similarly, investing in the services sector, particularly in areas like tourism and information technology, could help create new income sources and jobs. Another key aspect of economic diversification in Mongolia is the role of the informal mining sector. Informal mining, also known as artisanal and small-scale mining, has been growing in Mongolia, with many Mongolians turning to this sector for their livelihood. This sector provides an alternative income source for many rural and urban Mongolians, particularly in times of economic hardship.

However, the informal mining sector also poses challenges. These include environmental degradation, health and safety risks for miners, and legal issues related to mining rights. Therefore, any strategy to promote economic diversification in Mongolia must also address these challenges. This could involve providing training and support for informal miners, implementing regulations to protect the environment and miners’ health and safety, and establishing legal frameworks that recognize and protect the right of informal miners. Reflecting on these strategies, it’s clear that economic diversification holds significant potential for mitigating the effects of the resource curse in Mongolia. However, achieving economic diversification is not without challenges. It requires careful planning, significant investment, and strong political will. Moreover, it requires a holistic approach that considers not only the economic aspects but also the social, environmental, and legal dimensions of development.

In conclusion, while the resource curse poses significant challenges for Mongolia, these challenges are not insurmountable. With the right strategies and policies, Mongolia can leverage its abundant resources to achieve sustainable and inclusive economic growth. The journey may be long and fraught with challenges, but the destination - a diversified, resilient, and prosperous Mongolian economy - is well worth the effort.

Reference

Abovu, C. (2015). Global Journal of Arts Humanities and Social Sciences, 3(2), 19–36. https://eajournals.org/wp-content/uploads/Revenue-Allocation-in-Nigeria-and-the-Dependency-on-Oil-Revenue-The-Need-for-Alternativ-Solutions.pdf 

Bank, A. D. (2023, April 4). Mongolia’s Growth to Rise in 2023 to 5.4% Before Accelerating in 2024 — ADB. Asian Development Bank. https://www.adb.org/news/mongolia-growth-rise-2023-5-4-accelerating-2024-adb 

Bilskie, J. S., & Arnold, H. M. (2002). AN EXAMINATION OF THE POLITICAL AND ECONOMIC TRANSITION OF MONGOLIA SINCE THE COLLAPSE OF THE SOVIET UNION. Journal of Third World Studies, 19(2), 205–218. https://www.jstor.org/stable/45194063 

Bold-Erdene, J. (2023, November 28). Mongolia’s Economy Continues to Pick Up, But Growth Remains Uneven. World Bank. https://www.worldbank.org/en/news/press-release/2023/11/28/mongolia-s-economy-continues-to-pick-up-but-growth-remains-uneven 

Copper and Gold: A pipeline of hope - Mongolia Mining 2024. (2023, May 26). Projects.gbreports.com. https://projects.gbreports.com/mongolia-mining-2024/copper-and-gold-a-pipeline-of-hope 

EITI. (2024, January 19). Mongolia. EITI. https://eiti.org/countries/mongolia

IMARC. (2023). IMARC 2023 opportunities of Mongolia’s mining sector | International Mining and Resources Conference (IMARC). Imarcglobal.com.  https://imarcglobal.com/news/articles/imarc-2023-providing-an-in-depth-glance-into-the-opportunities-of-mongolias-mining-sector 

INN. (2021, March 15). Mongolia: A Fast-growing Economy with Unique Mining Opportunities | INN. Investingnews.com. https://investingnews.com/innspired/mongolia-unique-mining-opportunities/ 

Lkhaajav, B. (2023, December 29). Mongolia’s mining partnerships extract foreign policy gold. Eastasiaforum. https://eastasiaforum.org/2023/12/29/mongolias-mining-partnerships-extract-foreign-policy-gold/ 

Mongolia Gold Production, 1990 – 2024 | CEIC Data. (n.d.). Www.ceicdata.com. Retrieved May 1, 2024, from https://www.ceicdata.com/en/indicator/mongolia/gold-production 

National Statistics Office of Mongolia. (2023, December 11). Mongolia GDP From Mining. Tradingeconomics.com. https://tradingeconomics.com/mongolia/gdp-from-mining 

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Watts, J. (2007, October 10). Prospectors and “ninja” miners flood to east’s El Dorado. The Guardian. https://www.theguardian.com/world/2007/oct/10/international.mainsection 

Wikipidea. (2022, June 27). Mining in Mongolia. Wikipedia. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mining_in_Mongolia

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Research Essay Nomin Erdenetsogt Research Essay Nomin Erdenetsogt

Echoes of the Steppe: The Global Resonance of Mongolia’s Hunnu Rock Revolution

How has ‘hunnu rock’ affected the globalization of music, given its historical and social significance? This essay argues that the ‘hunnu rock’ significantly contributed to music globalization. This contribution is evident in its blend of Mongolian folk and Western metal, its worldwide recognition amplified by the accomplishments of bands such as The HU, and its symbolic representation of artistic expression in Mongolia’s post-communist era. 

When tourists explore the “land of the blue sky,” they immerse themselves in the nomadic lifestyle. They visit livestock herders and witness shamanic dances, reflecting the locals' deep respect for nature. (Whitener, 2017, p.14). Ascending the equestrian statue of Genghis Khan, they lend their ears to the whispering winds of the steppe. From this elevated perspective, gazing upon the boundless expanse of untamed nature, they realize they are indeed in Mongolia. In this very land of nomads, interestingly, a novel mode of exploration has emerged: the pulsating rhythms of Hunnu rock music. Through its unique blend of modern and traditional musical components, this music genre brings listeners directly to the Mongolian steppes. Hence, visiting Mongolia through these mere metal rhythms leads to a fascinating question. How has ‘hunnu rock’ affected the globalization of music, given its historical and social significance? This essay argues that the ‘hunnu rock’ significantly contributed to music globalization. This contribution is evident in its blend of Mongolian folk and Western metal, its worldwide recognition amplified by the accomplishments of bands such as The HU, and its symbolic representation of artistic expression in Mongolia’s post-communist era. 

The Intersection of East and West, Past and Present

Hunnu rock combines traditional Mongolian instrumentation and throat singing with Western heavy metal, creating a unique fusion of the East and the West. This blend of musical styles and traditions has introduced audiences worldwide to the rich cultural heritage of Mongolia. Simultaneously, it also demonstrates the potential for cross-cultural collaboration and innovation in music. Therefore, this exploration commences with a comprehensive analysis of the distinct elements of Mongolian traditional music, the characteristics of hard rock, and their intriguing combination.

The Mongolian nomads have a rich cultural heritage deeply intertwined with their reverence for horses and music. Traditional Mongolian music, particularly the Hunnu rock genre, features instruments like the morin khuur (horse-head fiddle), tovshuur, and throat singing. 

The horse-head fiddle, as documented in 13th and 14th-century Mongol empire sources, holds a significant place in their culture. This deep-rooted respect for horses extends beyond their use for travel. When a horse passed away, its head was honored by placing it on a mountain peak, avoiding the perceived disrespect of burial. The horse’s tail was preserved to create strings for their cherished musical instruments, including the horse-head fiddle (Barsbold, 2017, para.3).

The distinctive sound of the instrument is achieved by “gliding or brushing the bow across the two strings” (UNESCO, 2008, para.1). Until now, the horse-head fiddle stands as a profound symbol of the enduring bond between Mongolian nomads and their horses, a relationship that has thrived over centuries.

Furthermore, the tovshuur, often likened to “a two-stringed banjo or lute-like string instrument” is widespread among ethnic groups residing in the mountains of western Mongolia (Whitener, 2017, p.19). Historical accounts, including those by Marco Polo, mention the Mongols playing this instrument before going into battle, suggesting that a version of the tovshuur was likely in use during Genghis Khan’s era. This rich history is embodied in the instrument’s construction. The instrument’s main body, generally round and bowl-like, is covered tightly with animal skin to create the main resonator. The strings are crafted from the hair of common regional animals, such as “sheep, horses, or even yaks,” further underscoring the powerful attachment between the instrument and its natural surroundings (Whitener, 2017, p.20). Thus, the tovshuur is not just an instrument, but a symbol of the region’s history and ecology.   

Lastly, throat singing is a traditional style of singing believed to mimic the sounds of nature such as the flow of a river or mountain echoes. It involves using various combinations to control the “resonating chambers of the vocal tract,” all while maintaining a steady, “pressurized airflow from the stomach and chest” (Pegg, 2015, para.2). Similar to the art of opera singing, mastering this technique demands several years of practice. Moreover, the raw and powerful sound of throat singing can match the intensity and energy of hard rock and heavy metal music. 

In a parallel vein, heavy metal has found an unexpected yet harmonious blend with the sounds of traditional Mongolian instruments. Heavy metal, a genre characterized by its intense electric guitar distortions, emerged predominantly in the United States and the United Kingdom during the late 1960s (Havers, 2023, para.1). The horse-head fiddle, for instance, produces a rich and haunting sound that oscillates between deep, resonant lows and bright, sharp highs. In contrast, the tovshuur generates a warm, resonant, and earthy sound. These two instruments, each unique in their acoustic qualities, add a distinctive layer to the heavy metal soundscape, enriching its overall sonic texture and complexity. Complementing this fusion is throat singing, renowned for its deep and resonant tones, which serves to heighten the emotional intensity inherent in heavy metal music.

This harmonious meeting of different times and cultures not only enhances the richness of the music but also symbolizes the limitless possibilities of musical exploration and innovation. It’s a testament to how music can transcend boundaries, connecting us to our past while propelling us into the future. This fusion, therefore, represents more than just a combination of sounds; it’s a dialogue between history and the present, tradition and innovation, the East and the West. It’s the sound of a world where the past is not forgotten but reimagined and retold in the language of the contemporary.

The “Mongol Nomadization” on Global Music Stages

Building on this fusion, we witness the phenomenon of “Mongol Nomadization” on global music stages. As the production and popularity of heavy metal music become more worldwide, Western fans have started to seek out international bands and fresh, exciting sounds. Concurrently, non-Western metal bands have either embraced the standards and ethos of heavy metal or forged their own distinctive sounds, such as Hunnu rock (Spracklen, 2018, p.62). This global recognition of Hunnu rock has been significantly amplified by the accomplishments of bands such as The HU.

The HU, a band whose name translates to “human” in Mongolian, has made a significant impact on the global music scene, demonstrating the far-reaching appeal of Hunnu rock. Their debut album, “The Gereg”, topped the World Album and Top New Artist Charts, and their music videos, showcasing Mongolia’s stunning landscapes, have amassed over 250 million combined streams and views. They’ve sold out concerts worldwide and are set to appear at major festivals like Coachella, Lollapalooza, and Download Festival. Their praised Mongolian rendition of Metallica’s ‘Sad But True’ led to their inclusion in Metallica’s 2021 Blacklist album alongside other high-profile artists, attesting to their worldwide acclaim (The HU Official, 2024, para.3).

Moreover, their influence extends beyond music. They are vocal advocates for gender equality, diversity, environmental protection, and linguistic diversity, often incorporating endangered dialects into their songs (UNESCO, 2022, para.1). This commitment to positive change has earned them the title of ‘Artist For Peace’ by UNESCO, cementing their status as not just musicians but cultural ambassadors for Mongolia (Singer, 2022, para.1). This aligns with the insights shared by Peter K. Marsh, an expert in Asian music and culture. He emphasizes that it is not just the fusion of Western heavy metal and Mongolian folk music that captivates audiences, but also the authenticity of The HU’s music. It reflects their identities and experiences as young Mongolian men in today’s world, making their music feel original and deeply resonant (Baljmaa, 2020, para.6).  Therefore, the emergence of Hunnu rock, as exemplified by The HU, is a testament to the increasing interconnectivity of the music world. The band’s meteoric rise to fame, their commitment to social causes, and their role as cultural representatives of Mongolia further underscore the transformative power of this genre.

Rising from the Silence: The Hunnu Rock Rebellion

Expanding on the theme of transformative power, it is important to note that during Mongolia’s communist period, various types of music, including Western styles such as jazz and rock, and even traditional Mongolian music were banned (Farber, 2019, para.5). Thus, the emergence of hunnu rock represents a form of cultural and artistic liberation, showing how music can serve as a vehicle for social change and freedom of expression. This has resonated with audiences worldwide despite its lyrics in a different language and traditional elements, contributing to the globalization of music by highlighting the power of music to transcend social and political boundaries. 

Following the dissolution of the Union of Soviet Socialist Republics (USSR), Mongolia underwent a peaceful shift from being a USSR satellite to becoming “a democratic nation with a free-market economy in 1990” (Dovchin, 2011, p.1). The leaders of communist Mongolia stepped down without resistance, marking the conclusion of the 70-year-long communist rule in Mongolia. From that point forward, Mongolia has embraced openness, allowing external influences to rapidly permeate throughout the country (Dovchin, 2011, p.1). However, the world they entered was not diverse, as Philipson and Skutnabb-Kangas (1996, p.439) argue that “we live in a world characterized by Americanization and homogenization of world culture, spearheaded by films, pop culture, CNN, fast-food chains, and McDonaldization.” From this angle, the present mass media, which is dominated by Western and English-language content, could be criticized for exhibiting cultural and linguistic imperialism. 

 Interestingly, despite the heavy influence of Western practices during the early democracy, young Mongolian musicians were beginning to engage with the global music scene. They were responding to their nation’s popular music scene in ways that are rich with fresh ideas about what it means to be young and Mongolian in 1990s Mongolia. Hip-hop, for instance, was not merely an imitation or derivative of Western popular music. Instead, it has been skillfully appropriated by Mongolia’s media-savvy youth and adapted to the specific conditions of their local context in Ulaanbaatar, Mongolia (Dovchin, 2011, p.7). Furthermore, as an ongoing practice of this musical experimentation, the first Hunnu rock band Altan Urag “was formed in 2002 by seven recent graduates of the Mongolian Music and Dance College” (Heins, 2011, p.13). From that point forward, the hunnu rock genre has resonated far and wide, igniting the passion of thousands of Mongolian traditional and hard rock music enthusiasts, and even those who are in China and Inner Mongolia.

For example, Tengger Cavalry, a band based in Beijing in 2010, adeptly incorporates Mongolian traditional music instruments and throat singing into their repertoire, producing Hunnu rock music that surpasses their Chinese roots. A photograph on the band’s official website even depicts the band members adorned in traditional Mongolian attire, reminiscent of the Mongol warriors and shamans from the past (Spracklen, 2018, p.69). Furthermore, the fact that the lead guitarist, drummer, and bass guitarist of the band are American underscores the global reach of music. It demonstrates how individuals from different cultural backgrounds can engage with and contribute to Mongolian traditional music, further emphasizing music globalization. 

Accordingly, the global resonance of Hunnu rock is a compelling illustration of music’s capacity to inspire and unite. Despite originating from a country with a history of cultural and political restrictions, it has managed to captivate audiences around the world. This narrative highlights the significant role music can play in fostering global unity and cultural dialogue.

The Unheard Melodies Amidst the Hunnu Rock Surge

However, there are also concerns about the potential overshadowing of other forms of authentic Mongolian traditional music due to the global dominance of Hunnu rock. Some fear that the commercial success of ‘hunnu rock’ might lead to the neglect of lesser-known but equally significant traditional genres of music. Advocates for the preservation of diverse musical heritage argue that the overwhelming popularity of ‘hunnu rock’ could contribute to the homogenization of Mongolian music in the global imagination, potentially eroding the rich tapestry of Mongolian musical traditions. 

A recent manifestation of this concern is evident in the reactions to Enkh-Erdene, a Mongolian artist who showcased his country-style singing on America’s Got Talent. Despite his lack of English proficiency, he left both the audience and judges astounded with his Southern drawl (Jidoun, 2024, para.2). His distinctive style led to a flurry of reaction videos on YouTube. One such YouTuber, Lyle, expressed his astonishment, saying, “I thought we were going to get Mongolian throat singing, like The HU. I did not expect country Western to come out of that man’s mouth” (Lyle, 2024, 6:33).

Many argue that this reaction speaks to the potential for a narrow view of Mongolian music. However, the fact that Lyle expected throat singing but was surprised by country-style singing indicates that audiences are recognizing, not homogenizing, the diversity of Mongolian music. The ability of Enkh-Erdene, a Mongolian artist, to perform on an international platform like America’s Got Talent underscores the diversity and versatility of Mongolian artists, challenging the notion of homogenization and instead highlighting the broad spectrum of musical styles that Mongolian artists can master. For instance, Hunnu rock is now not the only music genre that combines traditional and contemporary elements. Bands like NaraBara, an Inner Mongolian band, are experimenting with Mongolian traditional folk music and the soothing rhythms of jazz, further enriching the Mongolian music scene.

In conclusion, it is clear that Hunnu rock, a genre born in Mongolia, has played a pivotal role in the internationalization of music. This genre, with its unique blend of traditional Mongolian elements and modern rock, has not only introduced the world to the rich cultural heritage of Mongolia but also showcased the potential for innovation when cultures intersect. Despite the concerns about the overshadowing of other traditional Mongolian music forms, the global embrace of Hunnu rock and artists like The HU and Tengger Cavalry has demonstrated that audiences worldwide can appreciate Mongolian music. The emergence of bands like NaraBara, who are experimenting with traditional folk music and jazz rhythms, further highlights this diversity. As we look to the future, it is essential to continue exploring and celebrating the rich tapestry of Mongolian musical traditions, ensuring that the echoes of the steppe continue to resonate on the global stage. 

References

Baljmaa, T. (2020, May 13). “Culture and art - immunity for any nation during globalization.” MONTSAME News Agency. https://montsame.mn/en/read/225277 

Barsbold, B. (2017). Morin khuur – Horse headed fiddle. Discover Mongolia Travel. https://www.discovermongolia.mn/blogs/morin-khuur-horse-headed-fiddle#:~:text=That%20night%20Sukhee%20found%20his 

Dovchin, S. (2011). Performing Identity Through Language: The Local Practices of Urban Youth Populations in Post-Socialist Mongolia. JSTOR. https://www-jstor-org.turing.library.northwestern.edu/stable/24572097?searchText=mongolian+rock+music&searchUri=%2Faction%2FdoBasicSearch%3FQuery%3Dmongolian%2Brock%2Bmusic&ab_segments=0%2Fbasic_search_gsv2%2Fcontrol&refreqid=fastly-default%3A5638f126e6ac2afd3259c40ccf722434&seq=10 

Farber, J. (2019, October 22). Steppe change: how Mongolian rock band the Hu conquered the world. The Guardian. https://www.theguardian.com/music/2019/oct/22/its-something-new-how-mongolian-rock-band-the-hu-went-viral 

Havers, R. (2020, March 27). Heavy Metal Thunder: The Origins Of Heavy Metal. UDiscover Music. https://www.udiscovermusic.com/in-depth-features/metal-music-heavy-thunder/ 

Heins, J. (2011, September). New Representations of the “Golden Lineage”: The Mongolian Folk Rock of Altan Urag. SIT Digital Collections. https://digitalcollections.sit.edu/cgi/viewcontent.cgi?article=2148&context=isp_collection 

Jidoun, G. (2024, January 16). You Won’t Believe Enkh-Erdene’s Beautiful Garth Brooks Cover. NBC. https://www.nbc.com/nbc-insider/enke-erdene-friends-in-low-places-agt-fantasy-league 

Last Rites. (2014, March 14). 5Q5A – Tengger Cavalry. Last Rites. https://yourlastrites.com/2014/03/19/5q5a-tengger-cavalry/ 

Lyle. (2024, January 18). AGT: Fantasy League | Enkh- Erdene’s Voice Will Amaze Reaction. YouTube. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dRCADhcJ_Xs 

Pegg, C. (2015, December 15). Throat-singing | music. Encyclopedia Britannica. https://www.britannica.com/art/throat-singing 

Singer, Q. (2022, November 27). The HU Become The First Metal Act Named UNESCO’s Artist For Peace. Forbes. https://www.forbes.com/sites/quentinsinger/2022/11/27/the-hu-become-the-first-metal-act-named-unescos-artist-for-peace/?sh=2daebb8e1913 

Spracklen, K. (2018). Throat singing as extreme Other: An exploration of Mongolian and Central Asian style in extreme metal. Metal Music Studies. https://intellectdiscover.com/docserver/fulltext/mms/4/1/mms.4.1.61_1.pdf?expires=1711572365&id=id&accname=guest&checksum=B88780ED22BAF20B24B5532BF2126740 

The HU Official. (2024). About. The HU. https://www.thehuofficial.com/about-1#:~:text=The%20band 

Tronckoe , T. (2020, May 17). The Hu: from Mongolia with love. Louder Sound. https://www.loudersound.com/features/the-hu-from-mongolia-with-love 

UNESCO. (2014, December 3). Morin Khuur - Horse Fiddle: Mongolian traditional musical instrument. UNESCO Archives. https://www.unesco.org/archives/multimedia/document-3754 

UNESCO. (2022). The HU named UNESCO Artist for Peace. unesco.org. https://www.unesco.org/en/articles/hu-named-unesco-artist-peace?hub=701 

Whitener, J. (2017, September). Sharing Global Musics: A Multimedia View of the Music of Mongolia. JSTOR. https://www-jstor-org.turing.library.northwestern.edu/stable/pdf/44677996.pdf?refreqid=fastly-default%3A5c5323ee474809307d6c336429ae9336&ab_segments=0%2Fbasic_search_gsv2%2Fcontrol&origin=&initiator=&acceptTC=1 

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AI: The New Fashion Guru

The recent news of Adobe introducing its first digital dress that brings fabric to life, Project Primrose, is a stark reminder of the rapidly evolving landscape of the fashion industry. The silver interactive dress, which utilizes generative artificial intelligence (AI), has the ability to dynamically alter its patterns, fabric color, and style while being worn by the individual. This innovative creation, powered by object recognition, algorithms, and machine learning, serves as a testament to the transformative potential of AI in fashion. While introducing the dress, Christine Dierk, the research scientist of the project, stated that “Fashion doesn’t have to be static. It can be dynamic and even interactive” (Adobe MAX, 2023, 03:03). In light of such innovations, the integration of AI in the fashion industry is not only enhancing creativity but also revolutionizing customer experience and sustainability. 

In the modern world of fashion, creativity is continually advancing beyond the traditional confines of needle and thread. Through the use of AI, fashion designers can now cultivate ideas without the limitation of fabric, and other substantial choices. For instance, methods of generative AI fashion synthesis, notably generative adversarial network (GAN) based models, have surfaced as potent devices for producing new designs. These models possess the capability to “disentangle and manipulate shape, texture, and style representations,” giving designers the opportunity to swiftly and efficiently explore a diverse spectrum of design options (Guo et al., 2023, p.11). Leveraging these tools, different kinds of generative AI techniques have already been implicated in various areas of fashion design. Zalando and Google’s AI-human design collaboration, Project Muze, serves as one of the examples. Operating as cloud-based software, Project Muze collects information on customers’ preferred texture, color, and style inclinations through a series of inquiries to craft personalized clothing styles. Its core objective is to employ “machine learning algorithms to turn users’ personalities and interests into inspirations for unique designs” (Sharma, 2023, p.15). The platform pursues to bridge the divide between capturing emerging trend demands and the continuously evolving world of style. As the fast-fashion industry constantly evolves and renews itself, platforms like Project Muze save time for designers to see their design vision come to the surface. One illustrative implementation of this is the “Fashion X AI” fashion show, which took place in Hong Kong, on 19th December 2022. The show displayed “more than 80 outfits from 14 designers in the spotlight, all of which were created with the help of the artificial intelligence software AiDA” (Reuters, 2022, paras.2). AiDA is capable of generating twelve fashion designs in just ten seconds using raw sketches and color palettes. Fashion designer Mountain Yam, based in Hong Kong, has incorporated AiDA into his work over the last six months. He attests that “it not only saved his time but inspired him” (Reuters, 2022, paras.5). Considering all these transformative implications, we can draw the conclusion that AI is reshaping the fashion landscape, enhancing creativity, while providing designers with innovative tools to transcend traditional boundaries. 

Yet, it is not only designers who are capitalizing on AI technology; customers are also reaping the advantages. Customer experience when it comes to fashion is complicated due to different body types, stylistic preferences, and budget restrictions. Personally, I often find it challenging to put together an outfit that suits both my body type and the specific purpose of the day. However, this problem can be solved, as AI has enabled “the automation of styling assistance, allowing the scaling of the feature that was once performed just by humans and affordable only to a few” (Evangelista, 2020, p.75). The AI fashion assistant can assist users in finding items that suit their style or align with current trends. It offers suggestions for clothing that complements their body type and provides advice on refreshing their wardrobe. For example, in 2017, Amazon launched a new fashion initiative known as Echo Look, with the aim of serving as a private stylist. The gadget is equipped with a built-in camera, microphone, and speakers. Users can use voice commands to capture photos of their outfits and share them with friends online. It also has “fashion recommendations by rating and compares the user’s outfits through a feature called StyleCheck,” which blends machine learning with advice from fashion experts (Evangelista, 2020, p.76). One can scroll through multiple outfit choices on the program and choose the one they prefer the most. Even so, the challenges for customers extend beyond just selecting and styling an outfit. When I search for new clothing items in stores, it is a struggle to discover the ideal piece that fits well and aligns with my aesthetic preferences. In 2019, Sportswear brand Nike took this matter into account and released the Nike Fit feature. This device is a scanner that measures one's feet and recommends the perfect fit. According to the brand, “60% of people at any given time are using the wrong shoe size.” Research indicates that this application is particularly valuable because finding the right fit for footwear can be a complex task (Evangelista, 2020, p.86). From these case studies, we can conclude that the synergy between AI and individual preferences is reshaping the way we navigate style and fit. 

This transformative impact of AI is not just limited to enhancing customer experience and personalization. When we shift our focus from the consumer’s perspective to the production side of the fashion industry, we encounter a different set of challenges and opportunities. AI implications in fashion through the lens of designers and customers are indeed compelling. However, as we delve into manufacturing, the issue of sustainability comes to the forefront. Fast fashion brands, frequently criticized for their role in waste and overproduction, exemplify the complexity of this challenge. For instance, known as one of the pioneers of fast fashion, Zara produces “12,000 new designs and manufactures more than 450 million clothing items every day” (Lai, 2022, paras.2). This is where AI can step in to reduce overproduction and optimize supply chain. It can ingest vast amounts of data to create actionable decision models that leverage years of experience but are also capable of processing billions of data points. (Linton, 2023, paras.4) Some brands, such as Ralph Lauren and H&M, are already using AI “to refine their range in line with consumer demand, operate more efficiently, and therefore drive significant value” (Consultancy.uk, 2023, paras.4) In support of this statement, OC&C study predicts that the fashion industry powered by AI can reduce excess production by 15% (Consultancy.uk, 2023, paras.5). However, as it analyzes data and predicts upcoming trends and customer demand to optimize the supply chain, implementing AI project can be complex and costly for fashion companies. Without proper execution, these projects can come with a carbon footprint that undermines sustainability goals. (Rodriguez & Vargas, 2023, paras.4). Nevertheless, the long-term benefits often outweigh these costs. AI tools are helping companies meet their sustainability goals by optimizing resource usage, reducing waste, and improving efficiency (Thomas, 2023). For instance, a fashion company, Sorabel, “leverages AI to maintain low inventory risk while delivering fashionable items at affordable prices” (Simon, 2020, paras.4). Therefore, with AI’s potential to optimize production, reduce waste, and align with consumer demand, it stands as a powerful tool in transforming the fashion industry towards a more sustainable future. 

In conclusion, the implication of AI in the realm of style is far from a mere novelty; it signifies a profound evolution in the way fashion is conceived, created, and consumed. AI’s ability to enhance creativity, personalize customer experiences, and address sustainability challenges is undeniable. From dynamic, AI-generated designs to AI-driven styling assistance, the fashion landscape is evolving at an unprecedented pace. Furthermore, AI’s potential to optimize production and reduce waste holds the promise of a more sustainable future for the industry. As AI continues to revolutionize every aspect of fashion, from the runway to the wardrobe, it serves as a testament to the ever-expanding boundaries of innovation and creativity in the fashion industry. 

References

Adobe MAX. (2023). Project primrose- GS6-5 [Video] Adobe Max. 

https://www.adobe.com/max/2023/sessions/project-primrose-gs6-5.html 

Consultancy.uk. (2023, February 17). Fashion industry can cut overproduction by 15%. Consultancy.uk.

https://www.consultancy.uk/news/33553/fashion-industry-can-cut-overproduction-by-15 

Evangelista, P. (2020, October 2). Artificial intelligence in fashion: how consumers and the fashion system are being impacted by AI-powered technologies. Politecnico.

https://www.politesi.polimi.it/handle/10589/167521 

Guo, Z., Zhu, Z., Li, Y., Cao, S., Chen, H., & Wang, G. (2023, August 23). AI assisted fashion design: a review. IEEE Access.        https://ieeexplore.ieee.org/stamp/stamp.jsp?tp=&arnumber=10223039&tag=1 

Lai, O. (2020, October 15). 7 fast fashion companies responsible for environmental pollution in 2022. Earth.org. https://earth.org/fast-fashion-companies/ 

Linton, M. (2023, October 3). Fashion’s new frontier: exploring the role of AI in apparel and sustainability. Forbes. 

https://www.forbes.com/sites/forbestechcouncil/2023/10/04/fashions-new-frontier-exploring-the-role-of-ai-in-apparel-and-sustainability/?sh=5b55cbe9561e 

Reuters. (2022, December 28). In Hong Kong, designers try out new assistant: AI fashion maven AiDA. Reuters. 

https://www.reuters.com/technology/hong-kong-designers-try-out-new-assistant-ai-fashion-maven-aida-2022-12-27/ 

Rodriguez, A., Vargas, R. (2023, October 27). The opportunities at the intersection of AI, sustainability, and project management. Hbr.org. 

https://hbr.org/2023/10/the-opportunities-at-the-intersection-of-ai-sustainability-and-project-management 

Sharma, A. (2023, April 17). Product design and development using artificial intelligence (AI) techniques: a review. Engrxiv. https://engrxiv.org/preprint/view/2958/5441 

Simon, R. (2020, July 24). How innovative sustainable fashion retailers are adopting AI/machine learning. Pixyle.ai. 

https://www.pixyle.ai/retail-trends/how-innovative-sustainable-fashion-retailers-are-adopting-ai-machine-learning 

Thomas, J. (2023, July 26). How AI is helping companies meet sustainability goals. IBM. 

https://www.ibm.com/blog/how-ai-is-helping-companies-meet-sustainability-goals/ 

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One must imagine Sisyphus happy since “one” is Sisyphus.

Make it stand out

Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference.

Although I’ve heard a lot about Albert Camus and his profound philosophical novels in high school, I was first introduced to him through one of his existentialist essays, The Myth of Sisyphus during a philosophy course at university. In this essay, Camus grapples with the concept of the absurd, which emerges from the stark conflict between humanity’s yearning for meaning and the seemingly purposeless nature of the universe. The central metaphor of the essay is the Greek myth of Sisyphus, a figure condemned by the gods to roll a boulder up a hill for eternity, only to have it roll back down each time he reaches the summit.

Our class engaged in lively discussions about Sisyphus’s punishment and the intriguing assertion that he can be considered “happy” despite his seemingly bleak fate. These conversations often led to a sense of pity and sadness among students, as we contemplated the notion of enduring an eternity of meaningless toil. It was challenging to imagine ourselves in Sisyphus’s shoes, given the stifling and repetitive nature of his punishment. What is his life purpose if all he can do is to push a stone over and over? What is there to find meaning? Yet, as we delved deeper, it became evident to me that there were parallels between Sisyphus’s plight and the routines of our own lives.

I distinctly remember the moment when I realized that my parents, much like everyone else, didn’t possess all the answers about the world. They, too, continued to navigate life without delving into the profound intricacies of its workings. Their daily routine involved waking up, going to work, returning home, having dinner, and repeating it all the next day. Unlike Sisyphus, they encountered subtle variations in the small details of their lives, preventing their days from becoming entirely monotonous. However, one thing became evident: my parents, like Sisyphus, grappled with the ultimate meaning of life, a challenge that resonates with everyone. Instead of running away from the absurdity — the clash between the desire for meaning and the perceived meaninglessness of life — we should confront it directly. We should rebel against our absurd conditions by embracing life, creating our own meaning, and living authentically. It is in this confrontation that we can find happiness.

My parents each had their distinct approaches to this quest for meaning. My mom, who cherishes living in the present and seizing life’s moments while maintaining mindfulness, found meaning in the simplicity of life, particularly in her family. On the other hand, my dad took a different route. He delved into Buddhist philosophy at a religious institute, seeking explanations about life and finding meaning in leading an authentic life — helping others and nurturing a serene, pure heart.

These varied approaches illustrate how individuals establish their own rules and set their unique goals. Religion serves as a striking example, offering the promise of peace and awareness of an afterlife. Conversely, some individuals pursue monetary gain, seeking peace through financial stability in retirement. However, people can inadvertently confine themselves to a Sisyphean condition when they believe that reaching these milestones will free them from their “punishment.”

Sisyphus, in his eternal task, has no concept of a better day or an afterlife. His experiences are firmly rooted in the here and now. He fully embraces his task, rebelling against nihilism and despair, ultimately becoming the master of his own narrative. Even in his punishment, he finds freedom. Camus thus suggests that “we are free at every moment.” Rejecting the notion that we will one day find all the answers, conquer death, or attain complete happiness is a profound lesson we must internalize.

For Sisyphus, it is not about reaching the summit, as he inevitably does. It is about the satisfaction he derives while engaged in the task. We should apply this to our lives, too.

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